Rome and Spain

Hey folks. Sorry for the pins and needles but this past week has been . . . interesting. Angie has already told you tales of cancelled volunteer hosts and wanting to go home and while there was a solid 48 hours of discouragement (even anger, gasp) we’ve bounced back and are really looking forward to ending our adventure strong. As I type this I’m sitting unshowered, un laundried, and unshaven (last shave: Sept 20) on a “bullet” train (high speed) zooming towards Valencia at uh, let me check, 158 km/h. We’re fixed to arrive in 3.5 hours; a regular train would take 7. Poor Ethan, we told the excitable pre-scientist that the train went 220km/h, so for the past hour he’s been staring intensely at the digital speedometer waiting for the moment when we zoar over 200. A few minutes ago he shouted “we’re at 174 Dad.” At least he’s preoccupied though, because let me tell you, a bored Ethan is BAD NEWS. Yes Mom, I realize who his father is.

We decided on Valencia late last night after finally finding a vacant, fully loaded apartment outside a small town (Macastre) 30km west of Valencia, off the coast of Spain. (We’ve had unlimited internet at our hotel which has saved us, seriously) Nicholas, our apartment host, has been FANTASTIC even offering to pick us up???? There’s even a pool which received a collective cheer from our treis ninos. We’re staying for one week to make up for the cancelled volunteering opportunity and as Angie said, the price is ridiculously cheap. Seriously folks, come to rural Europe in October and November and you’ll find cheap luxury everywhere. (Speed update: Ethan just informed me we hit 198. Yay!!!) Once deciding on Valencia, we still had to, oh right, find a train. Not knowing the times or even if there was room I woke up early this morning, jogged to the station and was able to book a train leaving in 2 hours!?. Yikes. I ran back with just enough time to tell Angie, pack, pay and lead my family and our 9 backpacks (we began the trip with 7), to the train. We made it, we always do, but our disheveled look is once again our price.

Angie has deferred Rome to me. Thanks hon. She’s right of course; I have waited my whole life to experience this great city. We arrived in Rome the night before our cruise, I’ve already written about that so I’ll launch ahead to the three days we spent there after the cruise. Our first day in Rome was our best. We were coming off of Cruise leg so I intentionally planned an easy going day. We headed straight for the Pantheon, the architectural wonder of the world. As we walked through the streets of Rome I stopped and asked somebody “which way to the Parthenon?” He looked at me funny, most people do, but in this case it was because I was an idiot (mostly I am). “I mean, Pantheon, which way to the Pantheon? Sorry.” (The Parthenon is in Athens). We found it quickly, after passing by the very touristy Trevi fountain, and went inside. (yes Joan, I did the Trevi coin flip).

We stood inside for over an hour with craned necks and wonder, even the kids were impressed. The secret of the dome’s construction lies in the volcanic limestone they used (very light) as well as thinning out the dome’s walls the higher they built. The walls are 6 metres thick at the base and 2 near the crest. Bored yet? Sorry, I forget not everyone shares my unbalanced love of history (right Becky? ha). Anyways, I found it all fascinating as well as the slick drainage system in the floor, the one piece granite exterior pillars imported from Egypt, and Raphael’s tomb (not the ninja turtle).

After the Pantheon we were starving. We heard that there’s something called pee-tsa in Rome so we wandered a whole block before seeing a cheerful Italian kneading fresh dough (we needed some too, snicker). We stopped and gazed at him through the bay window and nearly wet ourselves when he put the prepared pizza on the shovel and thrust it into the stone oven. The pizza god finally noticed us staring at him, flashed us an awkward smile before continuing to make the world a better place. I quickly ran inside and ordered 2 HUGE for takeaway (European version of “to go.”) 20 minutes later we were making out with the pizza on the Pantheon steps. (sorry if its sounds crass but we kinda were). After the last crumb was gone we remembered Rick Steves saying that “the best coffee in Rome is right by the Pantheon.” Once again we only had to wonder a block. Tazza D’oro. This place has been roasting its own beans since coffee first came to Rome (400 years). The place was packed with locals, always the best sign when looking for quality, and we ordered a cup then a pound. I thought of my coffee loving friends Kyle, Troy and Martin and wished they were there to share the moment.

This post has already gone on too long and I’m only on the first day. Crimminy. I’ll summarize the rest. We finished off Roma day one by staring at the artistically rendered skulls and skeletons of over 4000 monks, at the Cappucin crypt. It was the oddest most fascinating thing these eyes have seen. The bones were arranged symbolically forming pictures of hope, love, redemption and of course, salvation. Unfortunately we weren’t allowed to take pictures but we did pick up some postcards. It was a great way to end off a great day. Our best day.
Day two we jumped on bus 23 and explored Trastevere (trahs-TAY-vey-ray). This stylish section is medieval Rome seen at its most modernly colorful. We strolled and ate good gelato a whole event in itself. We arrived back at our hotel (Alimandi) and Maddison and I ran out and found, you guessed it – more amazing pizza. The best places actually cut and weigh their pizza selling their narcotic by the gram. Buying pizza by the pound, can life get any better? Btw – for 10 euros, you can get enough pizza to feed 10 people, or 2 Chris Tyssens (haha, love ya Chris).

Day three was reserved for ancient Rome. We beheld the Coliseum before going on a downright disappointing tour of the Forum. It lasted an hour and a half and involved a Swedish host asking elementary questions (as a way to keep everyone involved) but the result was the Forum closed before we even went in. I’m serious; we didn’t even get to walk through the Forum on The Forum tour. We just saw it. “See that, that’s the forum? Neat eh?” Apparently the neat forum closes at 4:30pm, 4:30??? On a Friday?? I waited my entire life to see it. . . . Yeah I was mad. I finally calmed down knowing I’d be back one day. Rome was by far my favorite big city. On the taxi to the airport we drove out on the Appian way, the world’s first Deerfoot. Roma. Fascinating history combined with delicious pizza and ice cream, who could want for anything more?

Anyways, it’s November 12 now and we’re sitting in our villa in remote Spain, where we’ll be hanging out for the next week. The other night our very gracious and English host offered to drive me into town so I could stock up on groceries. I bought 2 cart loads which should last us the week. It cost me 60 euros, or 2 meals at a cheap restaurant. Our place is fantastic, amazing view of the mountains, lots of cats and a very sweet dog named lady. The animals have decided to live with us for the week which is great for the kids especially since they’re been really missing Hugo and Rusty - although a cat just crapped on our bed while I was writing this so perhaps not. Our hosts, Nick and Jeremy, are two blokes who moved here for the view and couldn't be nicer or more helpful. (funny eh, Nick and Jeremy). We head for Majorca on November 17th where we volunteer - picking olives at Son Rullan until we fly back to Calgary December 4. We decided to cut our trip a few weeks short due to the fantastic euro.

And there you have it, we’ll be in Calgary for several days. Hear that Hope? Ha. See you soon everyone. We’ve missed you all very much.

John